Help for our customers is just a phone call, test message, or email away. Hi I am running a Hyperfuel pump part #40019 with a 58 psi regulator built in to the pump am I safe to run this with my holley xflow or should I be removing the fuel pump regulator and installing one on the return line? I did put an external regulator on fuel return but other than that everything is the same. Would appreciate your input. I really want to go EFI this year. 4-hole spacers seem to work better than open spacers. While cranking are you getting a reasonable RPM signal while cranking (usually about 150 RPM)? Tune the cranking fuel in the following locations: Using the Handheld Tuning > Advanced > Advanced Fuel > Cranking Fuel, Using the Software Fuel ICF (Fuel Injector Icon) > Startup Enrichment > Cranking Fuel. Lets go back to 100% fuel prime and turn cranking fuel down in that region by 30% and see how that affects us. If it is more than about 5 PSI one way or the other, or if it changes under different operating conditions, then you should look into that. Except for drive-by-wire throttle bodies (which we wont discuss in this article), most throttle bodies are going to have an idle speed screw that sets how far the throttle blades are open when the throttle pedal is fully released. Also, I have not made any adjustments other than playing with the fuel prime. Did you hear the fuel pump run at key-on? One thing I miss is the instant drop in rpms that my 650DP had. If the fuel pressure is a little low don't worry about that. We can adjust that with the after-Start enrichmentIll bump that up a bit. All seemed well with the setup and going through the handheld. Don't be that guy. Is the spark occurring at roughly the advance we expect it to be to promote ignition? More on that later. EMI is what wipes out all the electronics. Maybe I am missing something here. Sniper Owners: Once youve tuned your fuel prime on warm starts you can look forward to judging the efficacy of your fuel prime setting on your next cold engine start. Thanks. Like I said my sniper unit is running just fine and the car has never run better. If it dies again after this it must be a bad coil. This is a bit tricky. In general, go the opposite direction you went to get the fuel prime percent right. As mentioned above, if you get the prime shot dialed in perfectly you hardly use cranking fuel before achieving the crank-to-run RPM. Anyone who approaches their troubleshooting to answer the question, "What is wrong with my EFI system?" There is really no room for error on this. How Sniper EFI Helped Get The Andersons' C10 Project Back On Track. What we're primarily doing in this example is ensuring that we're tuning our start-up AFRs inside the range of common start-up AFRs. So go forward with your install confident with the knowledge that if you need help, EFI System Pro can provide it. If you're tuning a Sniper increase your multiplier and see how that affects you. I call this the Happy Dance moment. Too little opening and the engine risks not having enough air to start. Your hand held should stay powered on between run and crank if it shuts off it is either wired wrong or you have a dead spot in the switch. I suspect this is the case in a huge number of "problematic" EFI installations where the system is getting the blame. Great job implementing what I've written! :-). We do see a massive rich dip in the AFR as soon as engine starts. The car is 31 years old with only 13 500 miles on it. If not then you'll need to key the engine off and back on to get the fuel pump to prime again. Advanced throttle body injection systems capable of transmission control and more. We offer two potential solutions. What do I need to do to rectify this issue? I really would like to replace the intake gaskets. Sounds like it is "only" burning through the initial priming shot. I've been running the super sniper 1250 on my 6.2 ls for several months now and am still fighting cranking issues. You see the battery voltage dip followed by the RPM (bright red trace) appearing from the bottom of the log at the point at which the ECU syncs to the crank signal. Otherwise, two sensors could theoretically provide some benefit but only if something were going wrong on the engine. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.Gary. All it knows is what it sees in the pipe. Let me know what works for you! Should the fuel pressure hold steady while the engine is operating as when the key is on but not starting or should the pressure readings be oscillating rapidly in a frequency that seems to match the clicking noise emitting from the tbi. Does it smell rich? Is one barrel not spraying at all? Exactly. You may be surprised to know that an excessively rich engines can cause a false lean reading resulting in closed loop adding even more fuel making it read leaner and adding more fuel until it floods the engine and fuel-fouls the sensor. Question is, do I just plug what was the return at the throttle body? Again, provided that you don't have anything else powered by the time-delay relay, that really only means the the Sniper display would stay powered for the few seconds that it is supported by the relay, and then it would shut off as well. Therefor, -40 + 100 degrees = 60 degrees. At the bottom you'll see AE vs TPS RoC Blanking. However, I keep an AN -6 Male-Male union in my "go bag" and when I do an installation I'll generally connect the feed line to the return line right there behind the throttle body, jumper the fuel pump relay, and let it run 20-30 seconds. Pin 85: To Ground Any suggestions ? The engine warms up a bit each time. The Sniper ships with an OEM grade Bosch O2 sensor. Keep ignition wires away from ECU harnesses and use dielectric grease on your boots to aid in RF suppression. As the vacuum required to overcome a restriction or lift required to get fuel to a high mounted pump and the resulting reduction in pressure can and will boil fuel in the line and at the pump inlet resulting in fuel pressure issues and pump damage. Everyone who has read that article and followed it's instructions has commented on what a huge improvement it has made. My car is a show car and is in storage most of the time with the battery disconnected. Great work! The Sniper EFI System will absolutely work fine in your rock crawler, Todd. Can I get ready made tunes?Even with this problem it is by far the best fuel system I have owned. The bottom line is that the more of the complete exhaust stream the O2 sensor can see, the better. My setup requires too much pedal pressure both starting and running. Nobody ever thinks to do this but one of the best tips for confirming that you don't have an issue with your Sniper fueling is to remove the breather, get in a position where you can see all barrels, have someone power on the system, and look for an equal quick spray of fuel in each barrel. Full product line and accessories at excellent pricing. Increase that to 15 to start. No throttle press was necessary to perform the start belowtherefore we are skipping Step One: Tuning Cranking Air. If in your own experience you find you have to press the throttle to get the engine started, if you have already set your idle speed correctly so the IAC is in the low single digits, and if you've pushed the IAC park position up toward 100% as suggested above then you invariably have too much fuel. Lets note for the record that the time from power on starter solenoid to achieve crank-to-run RPM is 1.13 seconds. I can't find a good spot in the fuse block, I don't recommend this. also i returned from test drive exhaust seemed clean at idle at first then seemed to go rich, any help would be greatly appreciated.Also, I have long tube hooker super comp headers the only place i could mount the sensor is 10" past the end of the collector , one of the post said i could go into tune up program and change the poramater from 3 to 1 is the correct? Starts & immediately dies. In fact, MOST of the points on the fuse block don't do that! Copyright 2022 Holley Performance Products, Inc. All right reserved. From there it is a slam dunk. That delay is called After-Start Holdoff. Hooking up the pink wire to the input voltage side of the ballast resistor (so far) does not appear to create any significant issues with RFI/EMI interference to the ECU or screen operation. :-). I'm all eyeballs! Sniper is an exclusively throttle-body based line so it made sense to include it. Oxygen sensors read unburnt Oxygen not Fuel. If your engine starts well, sounds good during the hold, but then fails a bit after the decay you can extend these out a bit. Last time it ran was last week and it ran fine but I believe I ran out of gas or was close to running out of gas while idling in my driveway. Capability Range: Professional Once you determine how much you adjust the cranking fuel in the warm range you can either leave the rest of the range alone to see how it starts cold or else just adjust the entire cranking fuel table by the same amount that youre using to create an efficient warm start. Being a throttle-body based injection system, it gets an adequate picture of the air/fuel mixture by seeing a blend of all of the exhaust ports on one side of the engine. Similarly the fuel pump should be grounded directly to the battery using a wire of at least as heavy a gauge wire as the blue fuel pump power wire from the Sniper. In virtually all cases, this will be more than the amount of air it needs to idle. You should then have at least 18-24 of pipe after the sensor. Set the X Axis to RPM5. Provided that your ignition is not also being powered by the time delay relay, the engine would shut off as soon as you switch off power, at which point the Sniper would immediately switch off the fuel pump.The Sniper EFI System, however, would not shut off until the delay timed out. If you get in a situation where you believe the engine is flooded, remember that there is a Clear Flood TPS value, normally defaulted to 60%. *Possible delays due to Covid-19 click for more information. Fyi both fuel pump rocker switches have momentary primes. Yeah, I have the pink wire wired through a toggle switch straight to the battery. And the smell is just about gone. Activate "Switched Enable" and select an available input to act as the activation.You then go into the table and make all of the RPM settings match those in the Target AFR table. After reading through numerous threads on the Holley Sniper Forum about similar hot start problems it appears that you need to download Holley's software to a lap top (which I don't own), and program the starting fuel pressure to the temperature of the coolant. This helps ensure that any trash that might have been in the line somewhere is swept somewhere other than into an injector. All times are GMT-6. But never ever forget there is a second learning going on--your own. The kit I bought: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sne-550-511 Also for timing control, this distributor: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sne-565-302 If you jump in the car, insert the key and in the same move start cranking, you will not get a fuel prime. and set 3.) Most current pump fuels boil around 130 degrees. Does pressing the throttle slightly allow the engine to start. Do as I Holley says? Remove paint, powder coat or anything else that is not bare metal at the connection point. Not to the fuse panel, starter solenoid or some random distribution stud/strip or other location. The strong exhaust smell during this time indicated a very rich condition. Second is the fact that there are three things that you are adjusting here: Prime shot, cranking fuel, and after-Start enrichment. Holley's Dominator and Your thoughts?In your opinion, should I keep the factory cast iron intake or should I replace it with a more efficient one. You're not running your EFI system without a gauge are you? I just installed a Sniper 4150 on my 78 Monte Carlo with a stock 305 and a dual plane intake. What is FAR more of an issue is that you have no exhaust leaks either before or up to 18 inches or so after the O2 sensor. Too much and it will simply idle high and can be manually adjusted down. My car idles beautifully @ about 800rpm. The Ordering process was so easy and non-painful. When a wide band sensor is (DAMAGED) it almost always reads dead lean. That should be adequate to get the engine running. The Del City Time Delay Relay is pinned just like a normal relay. I know it's only 2 feet but ever inch counts. This is most easily done using the blue fuel pump wire. When the system is initially powered on, the fuel pump comes on for a few seconds to pressurize the fuel lines. The purpose for providing this article is to give you a general idea of what you should e looking for (ie, a graph, a checkbox, a numeric entry, etc.) Ill check the coil and see if anything else is attached. Any tips or info on cold starts? Don't hesitate to call, nights and weekends included.). Activate Advanced Tables2. Capability Range: Moderate From what I read it should not be installed vertically? Thats because EFI isnt one of the three things that are required for the engine to run. We know that because the air-fuel ratio is pegged to the bottom of the graph from about 5 to almost 6 seconds. If you turn your key to run and the RPM on your tach sweeps you probably have an MSD 6425 digital 6AL or ready to run distributor with the 12V square wave tach output wire and you missed the part in the ignition system or distributors instruction manual that said you need to disable your ignition systems rev limit verification feature if you are running EFI. First, there is the obvious--the system has to learn. I think my tach is on there. Thanks, Steve! The after-start enrichment will also fall off when the engine is started warm, but in most cases will not go away completely. Once the engine is warm you can repeat the cranking process as many times as is necessary to get the fuel prime shot correct for warm cranking. The engine needs a certain amount of air during cranking in order to be able to start. Thanks. Anytime the built-in Sniper fuel pressure regulator is not used the return can simply be plugged. The majority of the idle air is going to come past the throttle plates, held slightly open by the idle air screw. You can find that here. That helped. If you do not understand a step seek assistance. Cheers Darren. Then, click on AE vs MAP Rate of Change and change that to 15 as well. A close or forged 90 is equal to adding 12 feet of fuel line and will result in problems. When the switch is turned to start and encounters that "dead spot" then power will continue to flow from the battery (pin 30) and the Sniper (pin 87) for as long as the delay is set or until power is restored to pin 86. Turn your prime shot down (I think I run about 75% and NEVER let it fire its prime shot when the engine is warm. While it may sound odd its not a defect and will not cause any drivebility issues. For the Sniper it is best to run resistor plugs. Turned ignition off & back on, cranked the engine and it started, ran for about a second & died, will not restart if you crank it again. There are just turn downs after the electric cut outs. Ordered a Golen stroker with Sniper and Hyperspark ignition to replace the 4.2 in my 89. FSM Manuals Jeep Manuals. Is this normal? Extending wires with too small of a wire gauge will also result in the same damage. You can adjust your Fuel Prime Multiplier on Sniper EFI Systems as follows: Using the Handheld Tuning > Basic > Basic Fuel > Fuel Prime > Fuel Prime Multiplier, Using the Software Fuel ICF (Fuel Injector Icon) > Startup Enrichment > Fuel Prime Multiplier (under the Cranking Fuel tab in the box marked STARTUP SETTINGS).
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